Arrivo in Ucraina

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30 Dicembre 2014. Łańcut -Novovolynsk ( 224 km)

Di prima mattina il piccolo alberghino di Łańcut prende vita. Assieme a noi, intenti nel gustare l’abbondante colazione tipica polacca, ci sono normali famiglie in viaggio in occasione delle feste di fine anno e naturalmente autisti di furgoni e camion che fanno la spola tra Polonia e Ucraina. Nei 200 chilometri scarsi che ci separano dal confine abbiamo modo di far passare sotto le ruote del nostro Expert strade importanti e stradine remote che, nonostante i dieci gradi sotto lo zero, risultano essere in piena efficienza. Unica attenzione costante è nei confronti di qualche cumulo di neve fresca dove ancora non sono passati gli spazzaneve. La Polonia è una delle nazioni che negli ultimi venti anni ha fatto enormi passi in avanti. Molte delle persone emigrate dopo il 1989 sono tornate ed hanno contribuito a far crescere il Paese. Lo stereotipo del lavavetri (in Italia) o dell’idraulico (in Francia) sono decisamente superati. Qui la gente ha costruito anno dopo anno un nuovo tessuto industriale, luoghi per il turismo, infrastrutture buone. Gli oltre 35 milioni di polacchi sono cittadini europei attivi a tutti gli effetti. Assieme a questo cresce anche la diffusione del metano con circa 25 impianti attivi in quasi tutti i voivodati (regioni) e altrettanti in fase di apertura.

Anche i varchi di frontiera con l’Ucraina crescono come funghi, a quello principale tra Cracovia e Leopoli se ne sono aggiunti molti altri e le mappe cartacee o dei navigatori satellitari non fanno in tempo ad aggiornarsi. Complice la crisi che ha colpito l’Ucraina, almeno per le aree occidentali del paese ex sovietico, la Polonia è un riferimento importante. Non è un caso che un bel pezzetto di Ucraina era in passato parte dello stato polacco. Gli ultimi chilometri prima del confine costeggiano il fiume Bug, un tempo  muro naturale a “protezione” dell’Unione Sovietica. Restano di quei tempi le torrette di guardia sull’altra sponda ed una buona parte di burocrazia sopravvissuta agli ultimi 25 anni. Finalmente siamo ad uno dei momenti più temuti dell’intero viaggio: la dogana di Ustyluh, proprio ai due lati di un ponte sul Bug. Siamo consapevoli che trasportiamo un carico ben al di sopra dei limiti doganali permessi per l’ingresso in Ucraina, lo sappiamo da prima di partire, è ciò che facciamo in ogni viaggio di solidarietà.

La previsione di lasciare senza problemi la sponda polacca è giusta, all’unica domanda del doganiere rispondiamo dicendo che il nostro carico è destinato alla chiesa di Novovolynsk, senza specificare nulla di più. Il giovane con aria svogliata alza la sbarra e noi in meno di un minuto siamo dall’altra parte del Bug verso l’esame più duro.

Ci consoliamo del fatto che siamo uno dei tanti furgoni strapieni di materiali e persone che rientrano per le festività di fine anno. Nei paesi dell’ex Urss il 31 dicembre è il giorno in cui arrivano i doni di Babbo Natale che localmente assume il nome di Nonno Gelo (Ded Moròz). Tanti bagagli e tante donne ed uomini che con pulmini partiti da tutti i luoghi d’Europa tornano per un periodo di vacanza nel paese di origine. Il trasporto dei migranti è un affarone notevole per tanti autisti improvvisati e privi di qualsiasi licenza. Un posto nel pulmino da Roma a Leopoli costa attorno ai 100 euro e lo spericolato autista spesso guida 24 ore di fila senza mai fermarsi a riposare. Così due volte a settimana. Finalmente è il nostro turno e alle nostre spiegazioni sulla natura della missione di solidarietà ci viene risposto che servono documenti di entrata, di invito dell’istituzione religiosa che visiteremo e burocrazie varie. Rispetto al passato e a situazioni analoghe, alla nostra indifferenza verso le complicazioni burocratiche, non segue troppa insistenza da parte dei doganieri nel cercare di complicarci la vita o di chiederci i consueti regali. Si limitano, con un controllo non troppo accurato, al verificare che non trasportiamo alcolici o merci di particolare valore. L’unico vero problema ci viene posto da una ragazza in divisa che non riesce a tradurre i nostri documenti e ci pone domande, alle quali avrebbe la risposta nelle carte che controlla se solo conoscesse l’inglese, sulla autorizzazione a guidare in Ucraina il veicolo di proprietà della Bigas. Il momento più divertente è stato quando la doganiera è uscita in mezzo alle macchine per cercare il signor Alfredo Biagiotti, il proprietario della Bigas e che ha firmato la delega a condurre l’auto fuori dall’Italia.

Alla fine superiamo l’ostacolo burocratico in circa 90 minuti, dei quali almeno la metà fuori dal veicolo con la solita decina di gradi sotto lo zero, a cui va aggiunta la differenza di fuso orario che ci porta un’ora avanti rispetto al nostro Paese d’origine.

Il battesimo con le strade ucraine avviene con un colpo che prendiamo sotto al furgone. Quando si somma il peso di un generoso carico con gli avvallamenti dell’asfalto, la conseguenza può essere di toccare la parte più bassa del veicolo con la parte più alta della strada. Si risolve con maggior cautela nei 25 chilometri che ci separano da Novovolynsk, dove alleggeriremo il veicolo.

Siamo accolti dalla famiglia di Igor, nostro contatto in loco e organizzatore della consegna del carico alla chiesa evangelica locale che concorderà con noi le modalità di distribuzione. A causa della mancanza di energia elettrica, problema sempre più frequente dall’inizio della crisi con la Russia, passiamo quattro ore fuori dalla consueta normalità. Per chi vive qui questo è un problema con cui fare i conti spesso negli ultimi mesi, lo dimostrano la presenza di pile più o meno potenti e di candele nelle varie stanze. I sette figli di Igor e Viktoria sono eccitati dalla visita di questi buffi stranieri e pure noi ci divertiamo a giocare con loro cercando di comunicare con la massima difficoltà.

Igor e Viktoria ci offrono un’ottima cena, a base di fantastici pel’meni ripieni di carne, durante la quale parliamo della situazione economica nella cittadina e delle problematiche emerse in Ucraina nell’ultimo anno. Novovolynsk è una città che base la propria economia sull’estrazione del carbone dalle miniere di proprietà statale. Oltre alla beffa della svalutazione della moneta locale, in pochi mesi dimezzata rispetto all’euro, arrivano notizie di ipotesi di chiusura delle miniere per scarsa redditività. Aggiungiamoci il fatto che nell’ultimo mese il Governo di Kiev ha scelto di ritardare gli stipendi per utilizzare le risorse economiche per fronteggiare la crisi bellica nell’est del Paese e sarà semplice capire perché negli ultimi due giorni i minatori hanno scioperato bloccando tutte le strade e attività della città.

Igor, che lavora nella miniera più grande della città, è una persona molto pacata e ragionevole, ma sarà anche lui a Kiev il 12 gennaio alla manifestazione di tutti i minatori della Volinia per chiedere al governo di non chiudere gli impianti.

Finiamo la nostra serata nel tentativo di sfuggire alla temperatura glaciale trovando rifugio nel piacevole, pulito e dal nome improbabile Hotel Don Chisciotte, circa 12 euro per una doppia con bagno e colazione.

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  821. 比特派(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  829. 比特派官网(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  830. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  831. 比特派钱包(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  832. 比特派钱包(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  833. 比特派(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  834. 比特派(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  835. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  836. 比特派官网(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  837. 比特派(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  838. 比特派钱包(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  839. 比特派(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  840. 比特派钱包(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  844. 比特派钱包(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  845. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  846. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  847. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  850. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  851. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  852. 比特派官网(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  853. 比特派钱包(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  859. 比特派(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  860. Visit the official Telegram website, choose the appropriate operating system such as Windows, macOS, Android, iOS, etc., and download the application. Enjoy seamless communication across devices with Telegram’s secure and fast messaging features, including text, voice calls, and file sharing, all backed by end-to-end encryption for enhanced privacy.纸飞机下载

  865. 比特派(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  866. 比特派(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  867. Visit the official Telegram website, choose the appropriate operating system such as Windows, macOS, Android, iOS, etc., and download the application. Enjoy seamless communication across devices with Telegram’s secure and fast messaging features, including text, voice calls, and file sharing, all backed by end-to-end encryption for enhanced privacy.Telegram下载

  872. Telegram中文访问 Telegram网站，选择适合你的操作系统（Windows、macOS、Android、iOS 等），快速下载并安装 Telegram 应用。无论是桌面版还是移动版，Telegram 都为各平台提供完美适配，保障安全沟通与隐私保护。

  876. Visit the official Telegram website, choose the appropriate operating system such as Windows, macOS, Android, iOS, etc., and download the application. Enjoy seamless communication across devices with Telegram’s secure and fast messaging features, including text, voice calls, and file sharing, all backed by end-to-end encryption for enhanced privacy.tg中文

  877. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  879. Visit the official Telegram website, choose the appropriate operating system such as Windows, macOS, Android, iOS, etc., and download the application. Enjoy seamless communication across devices with Telegram’s secure and fast messaging features, including text, voice calls, and file sharing, all backed by end-to-end encryption for enhanced privacy.tg下载

  880. 比特派下载(Bitpie)是一款全球领先的多链数字钱包，专为支持多种区块链资产而设计，如比特币（BTC）、以太坊（ETH）、波场（TRX）、泰达币（USDT）等主流加密货币。通过使用比特派，用户不仅能够轻松便捷地管理和转移数字资产，还可以享受去中心化应用（DApp）等多种区块链服务

  881. 纸飞机中文版访问 Telegram网站，选择适合你的操作系统（Windows、macOS、Android、iOS 等），快速下载并安装 Telegram 应用。无论是桌面版还是移动版，Telegram 都为各平台提供完美适配，保障安全沟通与隐私保护。

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