La settimana di Natale a Volgograd

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Breve testimonianza di un 25 dicembre non festivo in una delle parrocchie più grandi del mondo.

Il 25 e il 26 dicembre, qui in Russia, non sono giorni rossi sul calendario. Scismi che si perdono nei secoli (circa 1000 anni fa) e calendari che dai tempi di Papa Gregorio XIII (1582) non collimano hanno creato differenze nelle date in cui ortodossi e cattolici festeggiano il loro Natale. Secondo il calendario della Chiesa Russa Ortodossa il Natale si festeggia il 7 gennaio e di conseguenza tutte le ricorrenze si spostano in avanti di 14 giorni. Ma le differenze non finiscono qui, visto che anche altri aspetti tradizionali cambiano notevolmente. Babbo Natale vestito di rosso che porta i doni alla vigilia di Natale esiste sono nei supermercati ed è relegato ad un aspetto meramente consumistico. La tradizione vede Nonno Gelo (Ded Moroz) vestito di blu, o in alternativa di bianco, portare i doni a grandi e piccini il 31 dicembre. Nonno Gelo non vive né al Polo Nord e neppure a Rovaniemi: arriva da Velikij Ustjug, nel nord della Russia europea, e solitamente è aiutato da un nipotina di nome Sneguročka, che spesso assume le vesti di una bella ragazza.

Ma quanti sono e chi sono i cattolici in Russia? Si tratta di una minoranza nelle minoranze, perché non ci sono particolari motivi storici per giustificare la presenza della confessione religiosa cattolica romana in queste lande, quindi quasi tutti i frequentatori delle parrocchie sono membri di famiglie di origine polacca, tedesca, lituana, ucraina, armena, molti italiani ed europei che vivono qui e numerosi studenti universitari di origine africana o asiatica. Abbiamo partecipato alla messa di Natale nell’unica chiesa cattolica di Volgograd, dedicata a San Nicola: tra le circa 200 persone presenti, quasi tutta la comunità locale, si notava una forte multietnicità, a cominciare dal sacerdote di origine indonesiana. La cerimonia, ovviamente in lingua russa, è durata oltre un’ora e mezza ed è stata decisamente imponente, con una partecipazione forte di una piccola comunità che nell’indifferenza generale ha vissuto quello che è il momento più importante del proprio credo. Tra i partecipanti alla cerimonia religiosa, in prima fila, i pope ortodossi locali che con spirito ecumenico hanno condiviso questo momento con i cattolici.
Se si desidera frequentare la messa in un’altra parrocchia bisogna fare dai 300 ai 500 chilometri per raggiungere Elista, Astrachan’ o Saratov, quest’ultima sede del vescovato. Una diocesi immensa che comprende tutta la parte meridionale della Russia e comincia poco a sud di Mosca per arrivare in fondo al Caucaso. Alcune informazioni per comprendere meglio: la diocesi di Saratov, dedicata a San Clemente, si estende nei territori delle repubbliche autonome di Adihezia, Baschiria, Ciuvascia, Daghestan, Inguscezia, Cabardino-Balcaria, Calmucchia, Karacaj-Circassia, Mordovia, Ossezia settentrionale-Alania, Cecenia, Tatarstan e nelle provincie di Belgorod, Orenburg, Penza, Rostov, Samara, Saratov, Tambov, Uljanovsk, Volgograd, Voronez, Astrachan’, Krasnodar e Stavropol. Un territorio pari a 4,5 volte l’Italia suddiviso in 57 parrocchie. Su 47 milioni di abitanti, i cattolici sono circa 35.000: meno dell’uno per mille, mentre i religiosi che operano sono una settantina tra uomini e donne.

I nostri amici di Volgograd, ortodossi, con curiosità ci hanno chiesto come viene vissuto il Natale nella nostra tradizione, cosa si mangia, come ci si comporta, ed hanno provato ad essere partecipi assieme a noi della nostra festa.

Nella parte sociale del nostro viaggio, dedicata agli aiuti che portavamo con noi nel Daily, in questi giorni abbiamo concretizzato la parte relativa alla consegna dei materiali ai senzatetto di Volgograd e alle comunità di Astrachan’ ed Elista, le altre sedi della Giovanni XXIII in Russia. Le consegne sono avvenute nelle mattinate del 23 e del 26 dicembre presso la piccola mensa Caritas ubicata nella parte settentrionale della città. Alcuni dei capi di vestiario raccolti in Valtiberina, grazie alla collaborazione di molte persone a cui va il nostro ringraziamento e delle aziende Bma e “Io vivo in Toscana”, sono stati consegnati direttamente ai senzatetto. Altri sono fermi al deposito Caritas onde evitare fenomeni di accaparramento e conseguente rivendita da parte dei senzatetto più furbi. Quindi i materiali sono filtrati e consegnati durante l’intero inverno sotto la supervisione dei volontari.

La situazione in questi tre anni, da quando frequentiamo Volgograd, non è molto migliorata. Se la locomotiva Russia cresce dal punto di vista economico, i vagoni che rimangono indietro non hanno speranze di recupero. Molte delle persone di cui raccontavamo le problematiche sociali nel libro “Via Stalingrado” sono ancora al loro posto nelle strutture abbandonate e senza tetto nel parco dell’Ospedale numero 12 di Volgograd, non si registrano reinserimenti sociali, semmai decessi. Una vita per strada con problematiche peggiori di un “barbone” italiano, viste le temperature che costringono per sopravvivere ad accamparsi nei pressi delle tubature del gas che emanando calore attenuano i rigori dell’inverno. In una nazione dove lo stato sociale è assente, queste persone sopravvivono grazie alla Giovanni XXIII e alle altre realtà che collaborano con la Caritas locale.

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