Ritorno da Volgograd – Giorno 1

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Lasciamo Volgograd nel giorno più infame. Appena lasciata la città veniamo a sapere della strage della stazione.

Questa triste pagina di diario tiene solo marginalmente conto del grave fatto accaduto alla stazione ferroviaria della città dove abbiamo vissuto undici giorni. Nelle prossime ore pubblicheremo un resoconto solo su questo argomento cercando di esaminare il perché di questi episodi di violenza, che uccidendo innocenti non possono essere utili a nessuna causa.

Assieme alla nostra partenza arriva la parte più fastidiosa delle insidie del Generale Inverno, il ghiaccio. Da alcuni giorni le temperature erano scese, ma la spruzzatina di neve della giornata di ieri ha trasformato l’asfalto e i marciapiedi in superfici decisamente scivolose. Di primo mattino assistiamo a numerose scivolate di pedoni mentre attraversano al strada o aspettano il tram.
Tutto questo serve da monito ad una guida attenta, visto che le prime due ore di viaggio saranno accompagnate dall’oscurità, grazie all’abolizione dell’ora solare di cui abbiamo già parlato nel viaggio di andata.
L’ultimo atto in quel di Volgograd sono i rifornimenti di gasolio e metano a prezzi incredibilmente convenienti. Un litro di gasolio costa circa 0,65 euro, un metro cubo di metano appena 0,20! Per completezza di informazione: la benzina è attorno agli 0,67 euro e il gpl ben 0,33. Tra l’altro non mancano i distributori: nella zona di Volgograd ci sono tre stazioni di metano delle quali la più comoda è sulla tangenziale nei pressi del bivio per Rostov, la nostra direzione.

Comincia quello che sarà il nostro lungo viaggio di ritorno, che ci vedrà riattraversare tutta l’Ucraina, questa volta seguendo la costa del Mar Nero. Negli occhi e nelle orecchie ancora restano i saluti di Marco, Ruslan, Andrej, Jura, gli amici della casa che ci ha visto ospiti per undici giorni. L’ultimo saluto è quello di Dik, che ci regala l’immancabile leccata, massimo gesto di affetto nel mondo canino.

Emanuele scatta l’ultima foto del nostro Daily che parte dall’innevato parcheggio davanti a casa, e noi lo salutiamo dal finestrino nonostante la temperatura sconsigli il gesto. Ora, invece, non ci passa minimamente per la testa di muovere i finestrini: il rischio che il gelo blocchi il meccanismo di apertura è alto, come del resto sarebbe potuto succedere alle serrature del veicolo, sulle quali abbiamo spruzzato quotidianamente spray antigelo.

I primi 350 chilometri, lungo la M-21,  sono gli unici che coincidono on il viaggio di andata, con la differenza che stavolta li facciamo di giorno ammirando il panorama della steppa innevata che circonda la regione di Volgograd. È spettacolare riuscire a vedere il Don completamente gelato nei pressi del grande ponte di Kalač-na-Donu, che grazie al ghiaccio sulla strada percorriamo a meno di 30 km orari.
Proprio in questo momento, superato il Don, cominciano ad arrivare le notizie dell’attentato alla stazione di Volgograd. I primi sms arrivano dall’Italia, poi la radio russa annuncia il fatto, infine la conferma da Emanuele. L’argomento diventa il triste protagonista della nostra giornata e seguiamo in radio tutte le informazioni sulla cosa. Molti amici ci contattano per sapere se siamo coinvolti, ma almeno Giacomo e Guido sono ad oltre 150 chilometri dalla città. Emanuele invece era nei pressi della stazione, ma non è stato coinvolto se non nel vedere il terribile spettacolo poco dopo l’accaduto.

Alla fine della mattinata passiamo sulla M-4, la veloce strada che collega Mosca con il porto di Rostov-na-Donu, alla foce dell’omonimo fiume, dove effettuiamo il secondo rifornimento di metano. Lasciati Rostov e il suo fumoso traffico, che ci blocca per oltre due ore, facciamo passare sotto le nostre ruote gli ultimi chilometri di Russia presentandoci alla frontiera di Taganrog-Novoazovsk. Il confine è situato lungo la strada più diretta verso la Crimea ed Odessa, ma essendo decisamente lontani dall’estate non temiamo particolare file. Invece sbagliamo: dopo l’attentato alla stazione di Volgograd le misure di controllo a tutti i veicoli in uscita dalla Russia sono molto più attente e ci costringono ad oltre due ore tra fila e ispezioni minuziose al nostro veicolo.

Contrariamente al viaggio di andata, stavolta il confine ci permette di guadagnare due ore di fuso orario che in parte si compensano con il tempo perso in dogana. Siamo in Ucraina ed è buio pesto. La  prima considerazione è l’aumento della temperatura visto che tocchiamo i 4 gradi, che sono il record positivo del viaggio. La seconda è il peggioramento del manto stradale e la scomparsa della cartellonistica nei pressi della città di Melitopol. Il risultato è il perdersi dapprima nella città e successivamente nelle campagne circostanti. Alla fine recuperiamo la strada giusta dopo aver dissipato un’altra oretta. Arriviamo a Berdjans’k, città di sosta anche nella Roma-Volgograd 2011, dopo oltre 14 ore di viaggio e circa 750 chilometri di strada. Berdjans’k è una meta del turismo estivo e nonostante siamo fuori stagione ci permette di trovare un alloggio confortevole e un ristorante per un’ottima cenetta a base di vareniki e carne alla Stroganoff bagnati con vino georgiano della regione di Khaketi.
Esausti ci rifugiamo nelle stanze dell’Hotel Berdjans’k da dove domani tenteremo di raggiungere Odessa in un’unica giornata di viaggio.

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