A metano nello Stato che non c’è: cronaca di una giornata in Transnistria

di

Giorno 12 – 8 gennaio 2015  (Odessa-Chisinau km 245)

Dopo i postumi dei festeggiamenti natalizi comincia il vero e proprio rientro per l’equipaggio di Ecomotori.  Abbiamo attentamente esaminato le previsioni metereologiche dei prossimi giorni e ci siamo rassegnati a dover affrontare la perturbazione glaciale che sta flagellando questa zona di Europa. La giornata di oggi non prevede grandi disagi stradali, ma solo eventuali problematiche burocratiche visto che attraverseremo da parte a parte la fantomatica Repubblica di Transnistria.

Come ogni mattina, grazie alle temperature notturne polari, le strade di Odessa sono ricoperte di ghiaccio e bisogna muoversi con la massima prudenza. Non riusciamo a scendere nella parte bassa della città per fotografare il nostro Peugeot Expert davanti alla Scalinata Potemkin. La scivolosità delle stradine che scendono verso il mare è tale che le autorità locali hanno chiuso quelle più ripide. Trovare una via alternativa per raggiungere la base della scalinata si rivela un’impresa complessa alla quale dopo mezzora di tentativi dobbiamo rinunciare. Non demordiamo, invece, nell’impresa di fare rifornimento di metano presso la stazione di Odessa 2, dove la scorbutica cassiera del self service ci costringe a mostrare i documenti dell’auto e far effettuare una verifica dell’impianto Bigas-Cavagna ad un tecnico dell’azienda di distribuzione metano. Ottenuto il via libera carichiamo i consueti 40 metri cubi prima di lasciare Odessa. Sono circa 60 i chilometri che separano la città ucraina da quello che un tempo era il confine amministrativo con la Moldavia. La strada è sempre diritta e una delle due corsie è sommersa dalla neve. Per la prima volta, nonostante splenda il sole, vediamo il termometro del veicolo scendere a sedici gradi sotto lo zero.

Superato il controllo doganale ucraino non si trova quello moldavo come erroneamente riportano tutte le carte geografiche, ma quello della Transnistria. La Moldavia non esercita più alcun controllo su queste terre dall’epoca dello scioglimento dell’Unione Sovietica. Curiosamente lo stemma e la bandiera della Transnistria sono quelli della Repubblica Moldava federata nell’Urss, cosa che fa di questo stato, non riconosciuto, l’unico al mondo ad utilizzare nella propria simbologia la falce ed il martello. In linea di massima questo territorio si sviluppa ad est del fiume Dnestr e la popolazione è russofona, contrariamente al resto della Moldavia dove si parla prevalentemente una lingua neolatina quasi identica al rumeno. In ogni caso, anche se decidessimo che questa nazione non esista, dovremmo fare i conti con la sua dogana, i suoi poliziotti e la sua moneta: il rublo della Transnistria. Un tempo le forze di polizia di questo posto avevano la fama di essere dei veri vampiri capaci di importi mazzette per attraversare i cinquanta chilometri sotto il loro controllo. La situazione è notevolmente migliorata visto che il tempo che perdiamo è solo per gestire l’aspetto burocratico finalizzato a concederci il visto di transito valido ben dieci ore, regolarizzare il passaggio dell’Expert e fargli pagare cinque euro di tassa ecologica. Una bella strada a tre corsie, quella centrale è per entrambi i sensi di marcia, ci accompagna fino alla capitale Tiraspol. I nomi delle strade sono rimasti quelli di epoca sovietica come la monumentalità delle statue di Lenin e dei memoriali a ricordo della Seconda Guerra Mondiale e di quella dei primi anni ’90 con la Moldavia. Di fatto questa striscia di terra è un protettorato russo com’è dimostrato dalla presenza di una base militare di Mosca e dai tanti soldati dell’Armata Rossa a spasso per la città. L’amicizia con la terra di Putin è ricordata anche dai colori dei bus del trasporto pubblico di Tiraspol che compongono le due bandiere russa e della Transnistria che si incrociano. Pochi anni fa, con un referendum, la stragrande maggioranza della popolazione chiese l’annessione di questo territorio alla Federazione Russa. Quest’ultima ha più volte minacciato di collocare postazioni missilistiche in Transnistria se la Nato facesse altrettanto in Polonia o Repubblica Ceca.

Nessuna nazione al mondo riconosce l’autodeterminazione di questo popolo e l’indipendenza de facto. Ci fermiamo a pranzo nel centro di Tiraspol per provare a vivere qualche ora in un luogo che non esiste nelle carte geografiche. Scattiamo foto, compriamo souvenir cambiando euro con rubli locali e infine, prima che cali la sera, lasciamo questa curiosa terra. Ci colpisce la presenza di numerosi distributori di metano, soprattutto dei due situati a ridosso del confine sia in entrata che in uscita. A giudicare dalle file, sembrerebbe che il metano sia molto utilizzato. Il prezzo è di circa 40 centesimi di euro a metro cubo, benzina e gasolio sono attorno agli 80 centesimi mentre un litro di Gpl ha lo stesso prezzo del metano.

Anche in uscita i doganieri non si dimostrano avidi visto che risolviamo tutto con il costo di un solo pacchetto di sigarette, come ai tempi dell’Unione Sovietica.

Lasciata la dogana, dopo pochi metri si incontra il posto di controllo delle forze di pace con mandato Onu, anche se di fatto sono tutti russi. Infine c’è un posto di blocco della polizia moldava. Un tempo entrare in Moldavia dalla Transnistria era considerato un reato grave punibile come immigrazione clandestina. Il tutto nasceva dal fatto che nessun poliziotto della nazione moldava ti metteva il proprio timbro nel passaporto e quando uscivi dal Paese rischiavi di pagare un multa. Ora che la strada e la ferrovia tra Chisinau ed Odessa sono tornate ad essere relativamente frequentate la Moldavia ha trovato un compromesso. Uscendo da Tiraspol non c’è una dogana vera e propria, ma un ufficio immigrazione che ti mette il timbro sul passaporto e ti fa pagare la tassa stradale per circolare nelle strade locali. DI fatto la Moldavia sembra doversi rassegnare a perdere la Transnistria.

La giovane nazione moldava è considerata dalle statistiche la più povera d’Europa e si trova a vivere un conflitto politico simile a quello della vicina Ucraina. Anche le recenti elezioni non hanno dipanato la questione visto che il fronte europeista ha conquistato un solo punto percentuale in più di quello che vorrebbe rimanere legato alla Russia. Anche qui, come in Ucraina, la contrapposizione tra i due fronti è alle stelle e il rischio che la tensione accumulata possa esplodere è alto. Senza una mappa e senza un navigatore funzionante in questa nazione, dopo qualche tentativo con il puro senso dell’orientamento riusciamo a raggiungere l’Ezio Palace Hotel, un pacchianissimo albergo, prenotato via internet, ed ubicato vicino alla sede della Tv di Stato. Nonostante il freddo pungente e la scarsità di fascino della capitale moldava decidiamo di cenare in centro presso il ristorante uzbeko Caravan. I caldi piatti centroasiatici ci fanno dimenticare il gelo che continua a circondarci.

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